Q. Why do the faces
of my kids appear so white and ghostly?
A. Skin is luminous and reflects a fair amount of light.
Especially children's faces. A flash in the face can cause the child or even an
adult's face to appear as a white blob with little or no features. In order to try
to correct this, the technician has to darken the image to the degree that the background
appears almost black, and in some cases will definitely will be black, as they try to get
features to appear on the face.
Q. How can I keep this from
happening?
A. First off, never get closer than 8 feet from subject. Most
auto exposure, auto focus cameras cannot focus on any object closer than 5 feet. At
5 feet you are way too close for a flash shot. If you must take the flash shot that
close, make sure that there are other lights on to act as "fill" lights.
Q. Ok, I didn't use my flash with my
auto exposure camera and the photo came out but the color is way off. What caused
this?
A. The Typical film sold in stores everywhere is called
"Daylight" film. It is specifically for taking photos in sunlight or with
a flash that typically has a "white" light. Tungsten lights (lamp bulbs)
put out a yellow glow that we cannot necessarily make out with our eyes but the film can
"see" it, and records it. Fluorescent lights give off a greenish glow.
Q. How can I correct for the color
of lamp lighting or florescent lighting?
A. Use your flash as the white light of the flash will help
overcome the cast of other lights. If the objects are too far for the flash to reach
(most flashes aren't much good past 10 to 15 feet) then you need What is called "fill
flash". That is an additional flash unit that is in sync with your camera.
Nowadays, a "remote wireless" flash is available at a reasonable price.
Also, color correcting filters for your camera lenses are
available you can hope that the photo lab is a good one with a well trained
technician. Even then, that is no guarantee that the color will be perfect, but it's
going to be much closer.
Q. I have Maxx film. It is
supposed to be good in low light. Why aren't my pictures turning out? They are
all dark and / or light and grainy!
A. That is the myth of Maxx film which is a high speed (more light
sensitive) film. Yes, it is great for moving objects (to a point) and works fairly
well for low light but you have to remember that the camera does not "see" like
you or I. It's eye, the lens, is open for only a fraction of the time that our eyes
are and in that small fraction of time it has to capture as much light and detail as is
can, which really isn't much! The more light and "information" that can be
transferred to the film, the better the picture.
Q. My film frames are
very dark and the colors in my photos are "muddy". Why?
A. Film frames that are very dark are "over exposed".
In other words, too much light for the speed of film. A film that is ASA 400 or
higher, is more light sensitive. Therefore the literally "burned" onto the
film, causing the colors in the print to be "muddy". Intensity may vary
from light to extreme.
Too much light
Just right
Q. My kids ended up with eyes that make them look they are possessed!
What do I do about red-eye?
A. Red-eye is caused by light reflecting directly off the retina of
the eye. To reduce the chances of this try to use a camera with an off-set flash.
Also try to keep your subject from looking directly the camera and also add
additional lighting to the room. If you are still getting red-eye, there are red-eye
reducing pens available at most camera shops or discount stores that sell cameras and
supplies.
Q. There seemed to be plenty of
light but my subject's face is still in shadow. What did I do wrong?
A. There was evidently plenty of background lighting. Was the
sun more over the person's shoulders? If so, then you need to use a flash in order
to illuminate the person's face. Or put the light source more behind you rather than the
subject. Professional photographers have a few tricks for taking pictures with flash
to appear to be ambient light and also by "tweaking" film... until you get to be
a professional, best stick with what's easiest.
Q. My frames are over-lapping on the
film in some places and wide apart in others. Why?
A. You might need to check and /or replace the batteries in your
auto-advance camera. Also, the motor drive in your auto-advance camera may be
stressed and weak. This is usually due to running 36 exposure film in auto-advanced
cameras. There is a third more film in a 36 exposure roll as compared to a 24
exposure roll, in the same sized canister and it puts a strain on the motor and gears
trying to advance or rewind all that film. I do not recommend 36 exposure rolls to
my customers that have auto-advance cameras for this reason.
Q. There is this halo in my
pictures. What caused this?
A. That halo is most likely caused by taking a photo while the lens
is pointed in the direction of the sun or some other bright light source. Also,
pointing the lens of your camera directly at the sun, especially for a long period of time
(laying the camera down somewhere) can ruin the camera lens. Lenses have a special
coating on them and the sun can literally scorch the lens. If you look at your lens
and see a darkened area or a rainbow affect, the lens is scorched or has been exposed to
an unhealthy cleaning agent. Alcohol and a cotton swab or camera lens cleaners and
soft lens clothes should be the only thing that touches your lens... not detergents or
your fingers. Keep the lens cap on when camera is not in use to avoid scratches and
dust. If your camera has interchangeable lenses, a UV lens filter is a must-have.
It just screws on to the end of your lens and protects it from dust and scratches.
Q. There are scratches along the length of
my negatives and showing up in my photos. Where did they come from?
A. Get out the "can of air" and blow the dust particles and
grains of sand out of the inside of your camera. A sand grain can get trapped and
scratch the film as the film is wound through the camera. This will show up as a
long line going through the length of the photographs.
Don't go cleaning on the inside of your camera with anything but
compressed air! And never touch the inside of lenses or the mirror inside your
camera. One scratch, one smudge and you won't be happy with the results.
Q. What are the black strings and
speckles on my pictures? And what about the white speckles?
A. The black strings and speckles are caused by dust and lint on your
lens. Use lens cleaner and approved lens towels or alcohol and cotton swabs to clean
it.
The white speckles are caused by dust on the negative at
time of printing. That is the technician's fault. Take the picture and
negative strip back and ask for a reprint. Most labs will be happy to reprint for
you. If not, don't go back to that lab.
Q. Why are my negatives returned to
me in plastic sleeves?
A. Those plastic sleeves are to protect your negatives from
dust and scratches and also the oils in your fingers. Dust, scratches and
fingerprints show up in photos. If you didn't get your negatives back in sleeves,
ask for them. If they don't offer them, find another lab. |