Tips On Taking Better Photos
for 35mm and other formats
by Leonel Williams

New Millenium Technologies
Paintings by Leonel
Sights of Possum Kingdom Lake, Texas

   We all want to take better photos, for more pleasurable, lasting memories.  Right?  And sometimes our photos just don't seem to come out quite like we think they should have.  Well, we compiled a few of the best tips to help your picture taking experience have a much more pleasing outcome.
   You will find Questions and Answers below.  Any suggestions are welcome.

Photo Tips are offered as a helpful guide to the beginning photographer by Leonel Williams of New Millenium Technologies.

Care of Film
Questions & Answers

Q. Why is there an expiration date on film?
A.  Film begins to degrade (age) as soon as it is manufactured.   Therefore, if kept under optimum conditions, the film will be of good quality up until that date...In other words, shelf life (just like a gallon of milk).  Who wants to drink out-dated milk? Yuck!  Same goes for out-dated film, but there are ways to extend the life of film (see below).

Q. What are the optimum conditions for a film's shelf life?
A.  Film stored on a shelf in low light at or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit can be expected to last to the  expiration date for fairly good quality exposures.  I'd recommend staying away from "bargain" film.  It's at a bargain for a "reason".

Q.  How can I extend a roll of film's shelf life?
A.  Cold slows the aging process of film.  Storing unexposed film, in it's canister, in a ziplock bag in the freezer will suspend the aging process.   When you are ready to use a roll of film, simply take a canister of film out of the freezer (leave film in canister) and allow it to thaw for 30 minutes before loading it into the camera.  Once you have taken up all the frames of film, rewind film, put it back in it's plastic canister, put it back into a ziplock bag and put it back in the freezer, or refrigerator till you can take it to a photo lab for processing.  This insures the best quality of film for your lasting memories.

Q.  Why store film in the canister in ziplock bags?
A.  You want the film cold and dry... not damp.  Humidity ruins film also, loosening the emulsion coating on the backside of the film.  Cameras used for underwater photography are sealed, thus keeping the film dry.

Q.  How does heat affect film?
A.  Heat speeds up the aging process.  The longer film is exposed to heat, the faster it ages.  Ever get your pictures back and they all seem to be tinted green?  Most likely this is due to heat exposed film.  Old film has that same greenish tinge and it cannot be fully corrected by the photo lab, especially One Hour Labs.

Q.  Where should I NOT keep film?
A.  Never leave film or cameras with loaded film in your car.   In the summer it can get up to 150 degrees Fahrenheit in an automobile.   You'll cook your film and your camera too!  Even on a bright, sunny day in winter, the temperature in your car can exceed 100 degrees.  Remember, you wouldn't want to be left in a hot automobile, therefore, never leave cameras, film, children or pets in hot cars.

Q.  What if I forget and leave film in my car?
A.  Take it out as soon as you remember to and put it in the refrigerator or freezer as described above, or bring it to a photo lab as soon as possible.  Hopefully it won't be too damaged.

Q. What happens to my film if I accidentally open the camera before the film has rewound into the canister?
A.  Film uses light to make the exposures.  Even the slightest bit of light leaking into the camera from either not closing the camera completely, or opening the camera by mistake can expose your film and ruin your pictures.  Be sure to check that the film is loaded properly and then close the back of the camera completely.  Advance your film at least 3 frames before taking photos, and make sure the film has rewound completely before opening the camera again.  If you must open the camera due to a malfunction, do so in a completely darkened room.  Remember not to force film out of your camera.  This not only damages the film but it also damages your camera.  The gears and motors in auto advanced cameras can be easily ruined by forcefully removing film.  Check that your batteries are good and replace if needed.   If you still cannot remove the film, take it to the nearest camera shop or at least a good photo lab where a technician might can help you.

Taking Pictures Indoors or Outside at Night

Q.  Why do the faces of my kids appear so white and ghostly?
A.  Skin is luminous and reflects a fair amount of light.  Especially children's faces.  A flash in the face can cause the child or even an adult's face to appear as a white blob with little or no features.  In order to try to correct this, the technician has to darken the image to the degree that the background appears almost black, and in some cases will definitely will be black, as they try to get features to appear on the face.

Q.  How can I keep this from happening?
A.  First off, never get closer than 8 feet from subject.  Most auto exposure, auto focus cameras cannot focus on any object closer than 5 feet.  At 5 feet you are way too close for a flash shot.  If you must take the flash shot that close, make sure that there are other lights on to act as "fill" lights.

Q.  Ok, I didn't use my flash with my auto exposure camera and the photo came out but the color is way off.  What caused this?
A.  The Typical film sold in stores everywhere is called "Daylight" film.   It is specifically for taking photos in sunlight or with a flash that typically has a "white" light.  Tungsten lights (lamp bulbs) put out a yellow glow that we cannot necessarily make out with our eyes but the film can "see" it, and records it.  Fluorescent lights give off a greenish glow.

Q.  How can I correct for the color of lamp lighting or florescent lighting?
A.  Use your flash as the white light of the flash will help overcome the cast of other lights.  If the objects are too far for the flash to reach (most flashes aren't much good past 10 to 15 feet) then you need What is called "fill flash".  That is an additional flash unit that is in sync with your camera.   Nowadays, a "remote wireless" flash is available at a reasonable price.
     Also, color correcting filters for your camera lenses are available you can hope that the photo lab is a good one with a well trained technician.  Even then, that is no guarantee that the color will be perfect, but it's going to be much closer.

Q.  I have Maxx film.  It is supposed to be good in low light.  Why aren't my pictures turning out?  They are all dark and / or light and grainy!
A.  That is the myth of Maxx film which is a high speed (more light sensitive) film.   Yes, it is great for moving objects (to a point) and works fairly well for low light but you have to remember that the camera does not "see" like you or I.   It's eye, the lens, is open for only a fraction of the time that our eyes are and in that small fraction of time it has to capture as much light and detail as is can, which really isn't much!  The more light and "information" that can be transferred to the film, the better the picture.

Q.  My film frames are very dark and the colors in my photos are "muddy".  Why?
A.  Film frames that are very dark are "over exposed".   In other words, too much light for the speed of film. A film that is ASA 400 or higher, is more light sensitive.  Therefore the literally "burned" onto the film, causing the colors in the print to be "muddy".  Intensity may vary from light to extreme.

Developed film

                                           Too much light                            Just right

Q.
  My kids ended up with eyes that make them look they are possessed!  What do I do about red-eye?
A.  Red-eye is caused by light reflecting directly off the retina of the eye.  To reduce the chances of this try to use a camera with an off-set flash.   Also try to keep your subject from looking directly the camera and also add additional lighting to the room.  If you are still getting red-eye, there are red-eye reducing pens available at most camera shops or discount stores that sell cameras and supplies.

Q.  There seemed to be plenty of light but my subject's face is still in shadow. What did I do wrong?
A.  There was evidently plenty of background lighting.  Was the sun more over the person's shoulders?  If so, then you need to use a flash in order to illuminate the person's face. Or put the light source more behind you rather than the subject.  Professional photographers have a few tricks for taking pictures with flash to appear to be ambient light and also by "tweaking" film... until you get to be a professional, best stick with what's easiest.

Q.  My frames are over-lapping on the film in some places and wide apart in others.  Why?
A.  You might need to check and /or replace the batteries in your auto-advance camera.  Also, the motor drive in your auto-advance camera may be stressed and weak.  This is usually due to running 36 exposure film in auto-advanced cameras.  There is a third more film in a 36 exposure roll as compared to a 24 exposure roll, in the same sized canister and it puts a strain on the motor and gears trying to advance or rewind all that film.  I do not recommend 36 exposure rolls to my customers that have auto-advance cameras for this reason.

Q. There is this halo in my pictures.  What caused this?
A.  That halo is most likely caused by taking a photo while the lens is pointed in the direction of the sun or some other bright light source.  Also, pointing the lens of your camera directly at the sun, especially for a long period of time (laying the camera down somewhere) can ruin the camera lens.  Lenses have a special coating on them and the sun can literally scorch the lens.  If you look at your lens and see a darkened area or a rainbow affect, the lens is scorched or has been exposed to an unhealthy cleaning agent.  Alcohol and a cotton swab or camera lens cleaners and soft lens clothes should be the only thing that touches your lens... not detergents or your fingers.  Keep the lens cap on when camera is not in use to avoid scratches and dust.  If your camera has interchangeable lenses, a UV lens filter is a must-have.   It just screws on to the end of your lens and protects it from dust and scratches.

Q.  There are scratches along the length of my negatives and showing up in my photos. Where did they come from?
A.  Get out the "can of air" and blow the dust particles and grains of sand out of the inside of your camera.  A sand grain can get trapped and scratch the film as the film is wound through the camera.  This will show up as a long line going through the length of the photographs.
    Don't go cleaning on the inside of your camera with anything but compressed air!  And never touch the inside of lenses or the mirror inside your camera. One scratch, one smudge and you won't be happy with the results.

Q.  What are the black strings and speckles on my pictures?   And what about the white speckles?
A. The black strings and speckles are caused by dust and lint on your lens.  Use lens cleaner and approved lens towels or alcohol and cotton swabs to clean it.
      The white speckles are caused by dust on the negative at time of printing.  That is the technician's fault.  Take the picture and negative strip back and ask for a reprint.  Most labs will be happy to reprint for you.  If not, don't go back to that lab.

Q.  Why are my negatives returned to me in plastic sleeves?
A.  Those plastic sleeves are to protect your  negatives from dust and scratches and also the oils in your fingers.  Dust, scratches and fingerprints show up in photos.  If you didn't get your negatives back in sleeves, ask for them.  If they don't offer them, find another lab.

 

 

Summing it all up.

   What are the best things to remember?   Keep your film cool and dry and that means never in a car for prolonged periods.  Never open your camera up to "see" if the film is in there or if it has rewound.  If you must,  take it to a completely dark room like a closet before opening, and remember that when you open your camera, the settings will most likely revert to "S" or "0" so try to remember how many frames you have already taken.
    Use a flash indoors and outside in the evening when there is low light.   And for best quality for bright days I suggest ASA 100 or ASA 200 speed film.   100 speed film also has a finer grain making it much better for enlargements.   ASA 400 and up are great for sporting events and better for most stop-motion photographs.
    Keep your camera clean, inside and out. Check the batteries often.   And my all time favorite Tip.... Read the book that came with your camera.   I know it's a drag, but it's better than struggling with trying to figure out the camera without it.  Plus there's usually some helpful tips on photography in those manuals.  Now go out there and capture those wonderful memories!

If you have a question you'd like to have answered...
e-mail me at: services@nmt-imaging.com
I will answer all queries.

New Millenium Technologies
Sights of Possum Kingdom Lake, Texas         Photos & Paintings by Leonel